TRIP TO SERBIA, KOSOVO AND METOHIJA JULY 20-AUGUST 5, 2021

July 26

We left Beograd on a HOT morning by picking up Kathy, Mary and Lizzy from hotel Moskva. Our driver Srdjan, from “Vuk Travel” was very helpful packing our things on the bus and making sure that we are cool enough. On the way we picked up Father Radivoj in front of the Hram Sveti Sava. He is our guide, spiritual father, historian, friend…. everything on this trip.

Off to Kosovo and Metohija, Serbian Holy Land, with lot of expectations and excitement.

We had couple of choices which route to take on the way to KIM; we took highway Milos Veliki, recently renovated and renamed. It used to be called Ibarska Magistrala.

Within couple of hours, we were at Monastery Zicha near Kraljevo.

We were welcomed by sister Patrikija, Doctor of Medicine by occupation.

In the beautiful welcoming hall, we had refreshments and chatted with her.

Other nuns (most of them) were picking plums. She said that there are over 40 nuns at the monastery. Many of them had COVID 19 but thank God all of them are fine. Only one nun ended up at the hospital in Kraljevo. Rest of them were treated at the monastery. It is of interest to know that the monastery has a mini version of the hospital for their needs.

Monastery Zicha is very important for Serbian people. It is an early Serbian Orthodox Monastery which was built by the Nemanja Dynasty.

By tradition, Serbian kings were coronated at Zicha and because of it is often called Sedmovratna (Seven doors) due to the coronation of seven kings. In 1979 Zicha was declared a Cultural Monument of Exceptional Importance.

From 1219-1253, monastery was the seat of the Archbishop.

Next stop was close by, kafana “Kod Mira” for a lunch before the next visit. This is the restaurant where we always stop for meal on the way to KIM. It never disappoints Lenten meal or anything else. Always good and prices are very reasonable. Kafana “Restaurant” is about 200 years old.

On the way to monastery Crna Reka (Black River) Ribarice, near Novi Pazar and Tutin. Monastery is from the 13th century. Most likely Sveti Joanikije Devicki built it. The story goes that Sveti Joanikije prayed in the cave and river was so loud that at one point he said “umukni crna reko” which in translation is like shut up black river. And it really happened. Two hundred meters before the monastery, river went underground and appeared two hundred meters after the monastery. Now one can only see the dry canyon by the monastery.

First impression was unexplainable. I have no words. For me this monastery is even more mystic than monastery Ostrog. By the way, it is 200 years older than Ostrog. It is like a medieval fortress. I cannot explain the feeling…or what an eye can see.

Monk Petar took us on to each room of the “cave” monastery and then Abbess Andrej, in perfect English, explained the rest. In the monastery are relics of Sveti Petar Koriski.

We had best watermelon here among other refreshments. What a serenity we are leaving…must come again…

Back on the road. Now excitement, sadness, come to the surface.

Only few kilometers before Rozaje border to Montenegro. Four checkpoints before we enter territory of Kosovo and Metohija.

Serbia (one checkpoint, exit) Montenegro (2 checkpoints, enter and exit), KIM one checkpoint, enter…

It could happen that for each one you must get off the bus. We were lucky that we did get off only once.

That day, and previous days, many buses were returned from administrative border. For no reason…it makes me sad to even write about this.

I was scared that they may ask for PCR test. We checked before we left that test was not needed but they change rules as they see fit. Luckily, they did not but they do ask you where exactly you are going. Talking about liberty, freedom of travel in 21-st century. Not to mention how much time this crossing administrative border may take. During the summer it may take up to ten hours.

Within couple of hours, we were at monastery Pecka Patrijarsija. Again, before you enter there are policemen outside of the monastery property.

Driver has to show the list of passengers, then they call the monastery and finally he lifts the ramp for us to enter. Outside the monastery walls, but on monastery property are policemen again, guarding the main entrance. Both policemen are Albanian.

Inside of the monastery walls are two Serbian men guarding the monastery. Same at night. They are guarded 24 hours.

All sisters from the monastery got out of the monastery walls to greet us. It was such touching, happy, sad scene……

We first went to the monastery to venerate Miraculous Icon of Mother of God and off for refreshments before dinner. It is already dark outside but still very hot. Around 90F.

Little dinner (they never eat meat) and off to sleep. Rooms are very hot. I share the room with Kathy while Mary and Lizzy are in another room.

Bathroom is at the end of hallway.

Good night everybody and thank God for this blessed day.